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| Posted By: |
John Marsh |
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| From: |
Kearney, NE |
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Count Your Virtual Miles
If you ride on an indoor trainer alot you may be able to use a standard bike computer without trying to find a long wire. Wrap a piece of handlebar tape around a seat-stay to zip-tie the reciever over the rear wheel. Run the wire along the top-tube taping or zip-tying in place. Zip-tie the handlebar mount to the side of the head-tube with one through the center where the handlebar goes and another around the entire mount to keep the computer in position. I also drip candle wax along the area where the mount and computer meet to keep the sweat out.
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| Posted By: |
Jonah Miller |
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| From: |
Salinas, CA |
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Loose Race
If you find that your front fork is a bit shaky, often times the race isn't set tight (particularly in older moldel forks), and just tightening down the headset will not do any good. To test, hold your front brake and push forward and back on your bars. Is there some give? If so, remove the fork and check the race. To tighten the race, remove it, cut an aluminum can approximately 3/8" wide and then wind it around you fork tube to the thickness you need, then press the race back on.
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| Posted By: |
Michael Phleger |
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| From: |
San Francisco, CA |
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Ode To Liquid Wrench
Recently my freewheel began failing to engage properly. This is not a good thing for a bicycle commuter who as a result could be found pumping air in the middle of a 6 lane boulevard at rush hour. I figured that the problem had something to do with the little ratchet arms not properly extending to engage the teeth (note my illetracy with part names). I tried to disassemble the unit but had no proper tools. I even used a hammer and nail set to try to turn the cap, but no luck. Finally I noticed a tiny hole in the body of the freewheel. Inspiration! Maybe I could free up the arms without touching them. I proceeded to fill the inside with Liquid Wrench and then covered the hole and shook up the freewheel. I repeated the process a couple of times and voila! The freewheel began working happily. I let the unit drain overnight, squirted in some light oil in the morning and remounted it. That was about a thousand miles ago.
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| Posted By: |
Bill Chitty |
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| From: |
Birmingham, AL |
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Easy Frame Stand
A simple, inexpensive home work stand for your bike is to use an automotive jack stand under the bottom bracket. I snap a home-made s-hook ended bungee cord from one side of the stand over the bottom bracket and on to the other side of the stand. My bungee cord is made from a section of automobile innertube to clear the chainring. You could do the same with bicycle innertube, too. When cables run under the bottom bracket I insert a piece of wood with a notch in it between the jack stand and the bottom bracket. Voila! The result is a stable stand that can be easily moved with the bike. The rear wheel is elevated for removal or for gear, brake and truing adjustments. You can remove the chain or disassemble the bottom bracket. Weight the rear wheel and the front wheel comes off the ground for adjustments or removal. This is also a stable way to store the bike without a kick stand and makes cleaning and lubing a breeze!
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| Posted By: |
Stan Klonowski |
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| From: |
Tempe, AZ |
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end The Frays
One of the keys to keep any bike running smoothly is keeping the cables clean and lubed. Sure we could replace cable periodically but it seems wasteful at times.
Here is a tip so you can remove you cables and put them back, superglue. Just superglue the ends of the cables. just a few drops keeps your freshly cut cable looking, freshly cut for a long time. Easier than solder, and cheap.
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| Posted By: |
Barry Schwartz |
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| From: |
Newton, NJ |
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No Cable Cutter Or Cable Ends, No Problem
If you don't have a cable cutter and/or cable ends, here's what to do after you have a new cable installed. Mix up a little 5 minute epoxy and cover about 1/2" of the cable in the area you want to cut it. After it cures up, you can cut right through the epoxy with most wire cutters and the cable won't fray. Added bonus is that the epoxy stays there and acts as a cable end.
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| Posted By: |
Dave Callahan |
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| From: |
Topanga, CA |
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Threadless Fork Stack Height Logistics.
The philosophy here is to keep the fork steerer tube as long as possible. Always add a minimum 12 mm of additional spacers to your stack height. Once you make the cut on the steerer tube you are stuck with the stem height forever (unless you buy a new stem with a different stack height or angle). I use the carbon fiber spacers (they look neat) placing various thicknesses in the stack before I make the critical stack height measurement. Later, it is easy to place a few spacer on top of the stem if it seems too high. Also, start with a stem that has a really high stack height. Buy a good cutting jiq (like the Park) and use it! And remember, DOUBLE CHECK you have all headset, stem, headtube, spacers in your stack calculations BEFORE you make the cut! If you do mess, up you now have some extra spacers to remove to save you!. A longer steerer can also make it possible to transfer the fork to a larger frame (I have done this TWICE), but only if you have kept it LONG. Remember, LONGER IS BETTER!
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| Posted By: |
Jairo Jaimes |
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| From: |
Flushing, New York |
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"ONE SECOND OVER SECOND"
If you want a take ONE SECOND OVER SECOND,you thing in this equation :(Safe energy + Get more power = More Velocity)
CHANGE YOUR CRANKSET RIGHT NOW.
Ask me.
I'm Inventor.
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| Posted By: |
Rich Pierce |
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| From: |
St. Louis, MO |
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Cereal Bags Are Tough!
Ever try to store something like a cassette, or clipless cleats, or anything sharp in a "baggie"? Not good. But every week you throw out tough bags that come in your cereal boxes. These are great for parts, won't tear, are semi-transparent, and hold a lot! Plus it's earth-friendly!
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| Posted By: |
Steve Jackson |
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| From: |
Dublin, CA |
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Colorful Language
Nobody likes repetition.
Carry a pocket thesaurus on your next ride. When you get a flat or break a chain, you can impress your friends with your improved language skills rather than the same old swear words.
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